Dubna
In 2008, an interesting monument to Vysotsky appeared on one of the city alleys of Dubna. The full-length figure of the bard stands on a low pedestal, resting his left hand on the guitar.
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Route “Moscow in memory of Vladimir Vysotsky”
| Length | 9 km |
| Travel time | 2.5 hours |
| Number of stops | 9 |
House on 1st Meshchanskaya at the end
Our tour begins on Shchepkina Street (formerly 3rd Meshchanskaya) near the M. F. Vladimirsky Research Institute. It was within these walls, in the maternity hospital of the Staro-Catherine Hospital , that Vysotsky was born. Not far away, his father was given a room in a communal apartment - on the famous 1st Meshchanskaya Street (house 126). Although it was Vladimir who made it famous, who wrote in “The Ballad of Childhood”: “but I was born and lived and survived - the house on 1st Meshchanskaya at the end.” This house was later demolished and the street was renamed. Now it is called Mira Avenue.
Moscow Regional Research Clinical Institute named after. M. F. Vladimirsky. Vysotsky was born here. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
But it's time for us to move on. To the Tsvetnoy Boulevard metro . On the way, it is quite symbolic to put on headphones and turn on some “horses”. The picky ones, for example.
Hooligans, including the future poet, gathered in the area of the Tsvetnoy Boulevard metro station. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
The entrance to the subway is located under the former house of the merchant Malyushin , behind which local boys loved to gather and measure their strength. Among them was young Volodya. In the evenings, the constant guitar appeared, to which the boys sang all sorts of folklore from the yard. Blatnoy, mostly. The future poet, of course, absorbed all these couplets like a sponge. And he later dragged some stories into his songs (about an infection that shaved its eyebrow, for example).
Next is Bolshoi Karetny . Also made famous thanks to Vysotsky. It’s worth asking “where are my seventeen years old,” and even a stray cat on Bolshoi Karetny will meow the answer. Here, in the well-preserved house No. 15, 11-year-old Volodya lived with his father and stepmother (from 1949 to 1955). The building of the school he went to is now occupied by the All-Russian State University of Justice. And on the house itself (residential, by the way) there is a stone tablet - “Young Vladimir Vysotsky lived here.”
“Where are you today? On Bolshoi Karetny. Little Volodya lived in this house for six years with his father and stepmother. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
There is a stone plaque hanging on the house: “Young Vladimir Vysotsky lived here.” Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
To make it interesting for you too, I will not reveal all my cards.
Therefore, I propose to move to the first Moscow pleasure garden, where the artist Vysotsky played at the Theater of Miniatures. The garden is called "Hermitage" . It was here that the first film screening of the Lumiere brothers was held in the capital. Chaliapin sang on the garden stage, Rachmaninov conducted, Sarah Bernhardt played... If you wish, you can interrupt the excursion and look into a cafe or skating rink. The number of visitors is limited for obvious reasons, but everything works.
The Hermitage Garden, where Vladimir Vysotsky played at the Theater of Miniatures. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
We cross the road and find ourselves on Petrovka, 38 . This address also became a household name. Including thanks to Vysotsky’s most famous role - Gleb Zheglov, who headed the banditry department in Govorukhin’s film.
Petrovka, 38 - Main Directorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia for the city of Moscow. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
If you dig deeper, the building of the Main Directorate of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia for the city of Moscow was occupied by the princes Shcherbatov (17th century). Later the property was purchased and became known as “Petrovsky Barracks”. The legendary MUR (Moscow Criminal Investigation Department) was located here after the revolution.
Vladimir Vysotsky was one of the first to read the detective novel by the Weiner brothers, “The Era of Mercy,” because he was familiar with the authors. And he immediately declared: “If they want to make a movie out of this, then the role of Zheglov will be mine.” And so it happened.
To the left of the checkpoint, through which you cannot enter the service area without a pass, you can see two familiar figures on the stairs behind the fence. This is a monument to Zheglov and Sharapov , erected in November 2021. They walk towards each other and extend their hands in greeting. It’s a pity that a random passer-by can’t come closer, like to the monument to the heroes of the film “Officers,” for example.
In 2021, a monument to Gleb Zheglov and Volodya Sharapov was erected on the stairs of the main building of Petrovka, 38. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
Taganskaya station, musician's share
Less than half left.
Then the navigator will lead you to the theater where Vladimir Vysotsky began his acting career. This is the Moscow Drama Theater named after. A. S. Pushkin . And he almost flew out of the doorway. Having received diplomas from the Moscow Art Theater School, the young actors decided to celebrate their graduation. They were so inspired that they started a riot in the restaurant. Protocols from the police were sent to theaters. Including Vysotsky. But, fortunately, everything worked out. And soon on the stage of the Drama Theater. A 22-year-old debutant appeared in Pushkin, playing Leshy in the play “The Scarlet Flower”.
The former chamber theater (18-19 centuries), and now the Moscow Drama Theater. A. S. Pushkin. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
In the mobile application you can read about the history of the building itself.
And we are already going down to the nearest metro station “Tverskaya”, moving to the lilac “Pushkinskaya” and going three stops to “Taganskaya”. It's a bit far to walk, especially in winter.
And so... As Andrei Mironov said in the film about the Italians, before you is the famous Taganka Theater , founded by director Yuri Petrovich Lyubimov in 1964. Although it would be more accurate to say - not “founded”, but “transformed” from the Moscow Drama and Comedy Theater.
The famous Taganka Theater, in which Vysotsky played Khlopusha, Hamlet, the unemployed pilot Young Sun and others. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
Vladimir Vysotsky and the Taganka Theater are practically synonymous. Like Lev Yashin and Dynamo Moscow. Yuri Gagarin and space. Sergei Yesenin and Konstantinovo.
Although the artist’s relationship with the theater management was difficult. Vysotsky often intended to break with Taganka. I was freaking out. He was waving his saber. But in the end he remained faithful to him until the end of his life.
Graffiti in the Nizhny Tagansky dead end, and now on Vysotsky Street. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
Open YouTube, type in the search bar “monologue of Khlopushi Vysotsky” (if you haven’t heard, of course), and you will immediately understand what kind of theater it was. Not only is it avant-garde, breaking the mold. So it is with the cosmic acting. Among other star names, one can immediately recall Valery Zolotukhin, Veniamin Smekhov, Alla Demidova, Leonid Filatov and others.
Well, the finish line. Vysotsky Street and the State Museum of the Poet . Due to the pandemic it was closed. And now you can come any day except Monday (opening hours: Tue., Wed. 11:00–18:00; Thu. 13:00–21:00; Fri.-Sun. 11:00–18:00; ticket - 200 rubles). Here you can read the manuscripts of Vladimir Semenovich, look at the titanic work that he did when creating his texts. One line could be rewritten ten, twenty, thirty times... If not more. Until the author found the most suitable option.
State Museum of Vladimir Vysotsky. Photo: Pavel KLOKOV
Vysotsky himself said that working on poems and songs would outweigh any of his other work (in the theater, in cinema, and on tour).
Apparently, that’s why he is loved so much in our country. And I’m sure they will love you for a very long time.
Votkinsk
A very beautiful and realistic monument to Vysotsky stands in Votkinsk. The beauty of this sculpture at the time of installation was appreciated not only by fans of the great artist, but also by his relatives, art critics, and sculptors. The money for the installation of the monument was collected by the city residents themselves (it cost them about 7 million rubles), and the authors of the work are Izhevsk sculptors Postnikov and Suvorov.
“There were idiotic laws at the cemetery”
Despite the criticism, over time people got used to the monument. But the sculptor Rukavishnikov, as it turns out, all these years was burning with the desire to bring the original plan to completion.
In an interview with REN TV, he said: “Despite Vladimir’s incredible popularity, he was not allowed anything. And there were idiotic laws at the cemetery too. It was impossible to reach the height that was planned. They didn’t allow me to make the face that I had in mind, so emotionally filled. And I didn’t like the fact that he was tied up. I then made a more benign, calm face, or something. I didn’t change the fact that he was tied up.”
Is it possible to make the situation even more absurd? It turns out that it is possible. Sadalsky said that in the end the entire sculpture was replaced and now the relatives will be able to sell the old version for a lot of money.
Rukavishnikov, quoted by KP, refutes this version: “Sadalsky is mistaken, to put it mildly. Well, why would I change the entire monument and shock someone? I cut off 70 centimeters from the bottom, and added about 40 centimeters from the top. People are used to a small height, so I made it a little higher.”
Photos and flowers at the monument at the grave of Vladimir Vysotsky at the Vagankovskoye cemetery in Moscow. 2021 Photo: RIA Novosti/Evgeny Biyatov
Kaliningrad
In the central park of Kaliningrad there is a huge sculpture of Vladimir Vysotsky, which is often visited by fans of the great bard. Vysotsky sits on a pedestal and holds his favorite guitar in his hands. The composition looks very heavy, but very beautiful.
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“You look like a gnome there with an angry face and a guitar instead of a hump.”
The story of the monument forever caused a split in the ranks of Vysotsky’s loved ones. The bard’s parents, who were joined by their sons, as they say, pushed through the decision on the sculpture by Rukavishnikov.
From Vladi’s memoirs: “When Volodya died, I, of course, knew nothing about your habits and was doing completely different things... And I didn’t go to pay the money and take a piece of paper... But you need to have such a paper in order to later own the grave. I didn’t want to own, this is not my way of living... But Vladimir’s parents did this immediately after his death.”
Article on the topic
Vysotsky's Chanson. Why did the legendary musician start with the “blatnyak”? Rukavishnikov himself claimed that he was not allowed to realize the entire plan: “They absolutely did not like in this work that Vladimir Vysotsky is depicted with his hands tied and that the guitar above his head looks like a halo from a certain angle. For two years they demanded that the halo be removed, that the hands be untied, and that one of the three horses’ muzzles be cut off. This is where I met halfway: I cut it off. Friends persuaded: untie it, take it away, there will still be a monument! But I remembered Volodin’s song “Monument” and stood my ground. In the end, he is the way I see him. That’s where I stand.”
The monument was unveiled in October 1985, and the actor’s widow was absent from this event. In her book “Vladimir, or Interrupted Flight,” Vladi wrote this: “From now on, an insolent gilded statue rises on your grave, a symbol of socialist realism - that is, what made you sick during your lifetime. And, since it is less than two meters in height, you have the appearance of a gnome with an embittered face and a guitar instead of a hump, surrounded on all sides by the muzzles of horses.”
Monument to Vladimir Vysotsky at the Vagankovskoye cemetery in Moscow. 2020 Photo: RIA Novosti/Evgeniy Biyatov
